🥦 Cauliflower
How to grow
Start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost — cauliflower is the most temperature-sensitive brassica and direct sowing is asking for disappointment. It wants to mature in steady 60-65°F weather; heat makes tiny button heads, cold snaps make them bolt. In Florida, cauliflower is a winter-only crop: transplant October-November in the northern half, and even then choose heat-tolerant varieties like 'Amazing' or 'Fremont'. Transplant carefully — any check in growth (cold, drought, root disturbance) triggers premature heading. Plant at the same depth as the tray, water in well, and mulch immediately. When the curd is 2-3 inches across, tie the outer leaves over it (blanching) to keep it white and mild — or grow orange, green, or purple varieties and skip the fuss.
Water & feeding
Never let it dry out — cauliflower has zero drought tolerance and stress at any stage ruins the curd. About 1.5 inches per week, delivered steadily. It's a heavy feeder: work 5-10% worm castings into the bed at planting and side-dress with castings or compost when curds start forming. Boron deficiency causes hollow stems and brown curds, so compost-rich soil (which supplies micronutrients) matters more here than for most crops.
Common problems
- Buttoning (tiny premature heads) — caused by transplant shock, cold, or drought; start indoors, transplant gently, water consistently.
- Cabbage worms — row cover or Bt, same as all brassicas.
- Fuzzy or discolored curds — usually sun exposure (tie leaves) or boron deficiency (compost and even moisture).
Harvest
Cut when the curd is 6-8 inches across, tight, and before the florets start separating — check daily, because the window from perfect to overdone is about three days. Cut with several wrapper leaves attached; they protect the curd in storage. Unlike broccoli, there's no second harvest — pull the plant and compost it.