🥬 Collards
How to grow
Start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost, or direct sow — collards are forgiving either way. In Florida, collards are royalty: transplant August through October for fall-through-spring harvest; they grow all winter and often survive summer in the northern half with afternoon shade. Up north, plant for fall harvest — they're one of the most cold-hardy vegetables alive, surviving into the teens. Collards don't head up like cabbage; they grow as loose rosettes of big leaves on a stalk, which means you harvest for months instead of once. They're heavy feeders: work compost and 5-10% worm castings into the bed at planting. Unlike fussy cauliflower, collards tolerate heat, cold, neglect, and poor soil — they're the honey badger of the brassica family.
Water & feeding
About an inch a week; collards handle short dry spells better than most greens but stay tender with steady water. Side-dress with worm castings or compost monthly during the long harvest season — you're asking one plant to produce leaves for 6+ months, so keep it fed. Mulch to suppress weeds and hold moisture; collards compete poorly with weeds when young.
Common problems
- Cabbage worms — row cover or Bt, the eternal brassica tax.
- Aphids cluster under leaves in spring — blast with water or invite ladybugs.
- Yellowing lower leaves — usually nitrogen deficiency in old plants; side-dress with compost and keep harvesting.
Harvest
Pick outer leaves when they're 8-12 inches long, working from the bottom up and always leaving the growing tip. A single plant produces for months — this is the cut-and-come-again champion of the cabbage family. Leaves sweeten dramatically after frost as starches convert to sugars; Southern tradition says don't pick them before the first freeze, and the biochemistry backs it up.
