🍆 Eggplant
How to grow
Start indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost; eggplant is the slowest starter in the nightshade family and needs soil 75–90°F to germinate — a heat mat isn't optional, it's a kindness. Transplant only when nights are reliably above 60°F; cold soil stunts them for weeks and they hold grudges.
Florida is eggplant paradise — long season, brutal heat, zero complaints. Plant transplants 18 inches apart in rich soil. Stake or cage; loaded plants flop over like they're fainting in a Victorian novel. In short-season zones, choose early varieties ('Patio Baby', 'Ichiban') and use black mulch to bank heat.
Water & feeding
Consistent moisture — drought-stressed eggplant makes bitter, seedy fruit. About 1–1.5 inches per week. Feed at planting with worm castings mixed into the hole (5–10% by volume) and side-dress monthly; eggplants are moderate feeders that sulk in poor soil.
Common problems
- Flea beetles: tiny shot-holes in leaves. Row cover early, or dust with diatomaceous earth. Healthy transplants usually outgrow the damage.
- Colorado potato beetles: hand-pick (satisfying), or use spinosad. They're nightshade specialists with no shame.
- Blossom-end rot: calcium uptake issue from uneven watering, not calcium lack — mulch and water evenly rather than dumping lime.
Harvest
Pick when skin is glossy and fruit gives slightly to thumb pressure — dull skin means overripe and seedy. Cut with pruners, leaving a bit of stem; the calyx has tiny thorns, so gloves earn their keep. Harvest young for best flavor and to keep production rolling.
