🥬 Lettuce
How to grow
Direct sow 2–4 weeks before last frost — lettuce germinates best in cool soil (60–65°F) and needs LIGHT to germinate, so press seeds onto the surface and barely cover. In heat, seeds go dormant (thermoinhibition); chill seeds in the fridge or pre-sprout on damp paper towels.
Florida reality: lettuce is a fall-through-spring crop, full stop. Sow succession batches every 2 weeks for continuous salad. Shade cloth (30–50%) is the difference between crisp heads and bitter mush from October to April in the South. Looseleaf types are the most forgiving; head lettuces demand more consistency. In the North, cold frames and row cover stretch harvest deep into winter.
Water & feeding
Shallow roots mean frequent, light watering — keep the top few inches consistently moist. Drip or soaker beats overhead (wet leaves = disease party). Lettuce is a light feeder; a 1/4-inch worm castings top-dress at planting is plenty, and the improved soil biology helps with nutrient uptake in cool soils.
Common problems
- Bolting: heat triggers flowering and bitter leaves. Grow in cool seasons, use shade cloth, pick bolt-resistant varieties ('Muir', 'Salanova').
- Slugs and snails: beer traps, iron phosphate bait, copper tape — the holy trinity of mollusk warfare.
- Bottom rot / damping off: airflow, don't overwater, mulch to prevent soil splash. Space properly; crowded lettuce is a fungal frat house.
Harvest
Cut-and-come-again: harvest outer leaves at 3–4 inches and the plant regrows. For heads, cut at the base when firm. Harvest in the morning when leaves are crisp and hydrated — afternoon lettuce is limp lettuce. Bolted lettuce is bitter; compost it and sow more.
