🧅 Onion
How to grow
The day-length thing matters, so listen up: SHORT-DAY onions bulb when days hit 10–12 hours (the South — Florida, plant in fall for spring harvest); LONG-DAY onions need 14–16 hour days (the North, plant in spring); INTERMEDIATE/DAY-NEUTRAL split the difference. Plant the wrong type and you get beautiful green tops and golf-ball bulbs.
Easiest path: plant SETS (tiny bulbs) or TRANSPLANTS in early spring (North) or fall (South), 1 inch deep, 4–6 inches apart. From seed takes longest but gives the best varieties — start indoors 8–10 weeks before transplanting. Keep weed-free; onions compete with weeds about as well as a housecat competes with a Roomba.
Water & feeding
Steady moisture while bulbs size up — about 1 inch per week. Then STOP watering when tops start falling over; like garlic, onions cure best when they dry down. Feed lightly: worm castings worked into the bed at planting, one side-dress mid-season. Excess nitrogen late = thick necks that won't cure.
Common problems
- Onion maggots: row cover at planting; rotate alliums; the flies find stressed seedlings by smell, so healthy transplants help.
- Thrips: silvery leaf scars. Reflective mulch, insecticidal soap, or just tolerate light damage — bulbs usually size fine.
- Bolting (premature flowering): caused by cold snaps on young plants. The bulb stops growing and gets woody — pull and use as green onions, then plant sets later next year.
Harvest
When half the tops have flopped over naturally, pull and cure 2–3 weeks in a dry, airy, shady spot until necks are tight and papery. Braid or bag in mesh; store cool, dry, dark. Sweet onions store weeks, pungent storage types store months — sulfur compounds are nature's preservative.
