🌿 Rosemary
How to grow
Rosemary is a Mediterranean native, which means its entire personality is 'hot sun, poor soil, leave me alone.' The number one killer of rosemary is not neglect — it's love. Overwatering, rich soggy soil, and heavy fertilizer produce a sad, floppy plant with root rot and an identity crisis. Plant it in the sunniest, best-drained spot you have; sandy or rocky soil is a feature, not a bug.
In zones 7–10 it's a perennial shrub that shrugs at light frosts. North of zone 7, grow it in a pot and bring it inside for winter — put it in your brightest window and water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Propagate from 4-inch stem cuttings in late spring; they root in a few weeks, which beats growing from seed (slow, erratic germination that tests your faith).
Prune after flowering to keep it bushy, but never cut into old woody stems with no leaves — unlike some shrubs, rosemary does not resprout from bare wood. That brown stick is not 'resting.' It's done.
Water & feeding
Deep but infrequent watering once established — let the soil dry between drinks. In containers, water until it drains, then ignore it for a while. A light annual top-dress of worm castings in spring is plenty; heavy feeding dilutes the essential oils that make rosemary taste like rosemary.
Common problems
- Root rot (mushy black stems, plant collapses): caused by wet soil — improve drainage, water less, and consider a raised bed or mound.
- Powdery mildew: improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, space plants generously.
- Spider mites indoors: mist occasionally and wipe leaves; stressed dry indoor plants are mite magnets.
- Winter kill in cold zones: mulch heavily, or just admit defeat gracefully and grow it in a pot.
Harvest
Snip sprigs as needed year-round once established — harvesting IS pruning. For drying, cut stems in the morning after dew dries, bundle, and hang in a dark airy spot.
