🍠 Sweet Potato
How to grow
Sweet potatoes don't grow from seeds or tubers — they grow from slips, which are sprouts grown from a mature root. You can make your own by suspending a sweet potato in water or laying it in moist soil 6 weeks before planting time, but buying certified disease-free slips is easier and safer. Plant slips deep (up to the top leaves) in warm soil — at least 65°F, and warmer is better. In Florida, that's April through June; up north, wait until nights are reliably above 55°F.
Then comes the hard part: doing nothing. Sweet potato vines sprawl 10+ feet and root wherever they touch soil, and every bit of fussing reduces the harvest. Don't prune the vines, don't hill them like regular potatoes, and definitely don't fertilize heavily — excess nitrogen grows a jungle of leaves and skinny, disappointing roots. They actually yield better in poor-ish soil, which makes them the rare crop that rewards neglect.
The storage roots form near the original slip, swelling through late summer and fall. They need the full season — yank them early and you get sad, skinny roots with no sweetness, because the sugars develop late.
Water & feeding
Water well for the first few weeks to establish slips, then back off — about an inch a week is plenty, and established plants tolerate drought. Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest so skins toughen. A modest amount of worm castings at planting is plenty; heavy feeding backfires on this crop.
Common problems
- Root-knot nematodes (lumpy, deformed roots — common in Florida sand): rotate crops, solarize soil in summer, choose resistant varieties like 'Beauregard'.
- Sweet potato weevils: use certified slips, destroy crop residue, rotate; the weevils overwinter in leftover roots.
- Deer and rodents: the vines are candy to wildlife — fencing is the only real answer.
- Cracking: inconsistent water late in the season; keep moisture even once roots start bulking.
Harvest
Dig before first frost (or when vines yellow in frost-free areas), being careful — the skins are paper-thin at harvest. Then CURE: 80–85°F and high humidity for 7–10 days. Curing converts starches to sugars and heals skin nicks; uncured sweet potatoes taste starchy and rot fast. Cured ones keep for months.
