🌱 Chives
How to grow
Start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost, or direct sow when soil hits 60°F — but honestly, buy one plant or get a division from a neighbor, because chives are perennial and you'll never need to plant them again. Seeds are slow and the seedlings look like green hair for weeks. Transplant clumps 6-8 inches apart; each clump expands into a bigger clump every year. In Florida, chives are perennial in the northern half and a cool-season annual further south — they struggle with sustained 90°F+ heat, so give them afternoon shade. Divide congested clumps every 2-3 years in spring or fall: dig, split with a knife, replant. That's the entire maintenance program. They'll outlive your mortgage.
Water & feeding
Moderate — about an inch a week while establishing, then they're fairly drought-tolerant. Overwatering in Florida summer invites rot. A quarter-inch worm castings top-dress each spring wakes them up; after that they genuinely don't need feeding. They're the lowest-maintenance edible in the garden, and it's not close.
Common problems
- Onion thrips in hot dry weather — blast with water; chives usually outgrow the damage.
- Rust (orange spots) — remove affected leaves; improve airflow by dividing congested clumps.
- Self-seeding everywhere — deadhead the pretty purple flowers if you don't want chive babies in every bed (or don't, and share with neighbors).
Harvest
Snip leaves with scissors about 2 inches above the base — never pull. Harvest from the outside of the clump. The purple pom-pom flowers are edible and gorgeous in salads; snip them just as they open. Cut the whole clump back to 2 inches in midsummer if it gets floppy and it'll flush fresh growth.
