🧅 Leek
How to grow
Start indoors 10–12 weeks before last frost — leeks are the slow food of the allium world. Sow 1/4 inch deep; trim seedlings to 3 inches tall a couple times to encourage stocky growth (it feels wrong, it's right). Transplant when pencil-thick into 6-inch-deep holes or trenches, dropping one seedling per hole and watering in — DON'T backfill; rain and watering settle soil around the shaft, blanching it white.
Hill soil up around stems through the season for longer white shanks — the white part is just stem that's never seen sun, which is also how vampires stay pale. In mild climates (zones 7+), leeks overwinter in the ground and you harvest as needed. In Florida, treat as a fall-planted, winter-harvested crop.
Water & feeding
Steady moisture — about 1 inch per week. Leeks have shallow roots and resent drying out. Feed at planting with worm castings in the trench and side-dress once mid-season; they're moderate feeders and respond well to the slow nitrogen release.
Common problems
- Onion thrips: silvery streaks on leaves. Reflective mulch confuses them; spinosad or insecticidal soap for bad infestations.
- Leek moth: row cover from transplanting is the best prevention — the caterpillars mine into the shaft where sprays can't reach.
- Rust: orange pustules; improve airflow, avoid overhead watering, choose resistant varieties.
Harvest
Harvest anytime once shafts are 1+ inch thick — leeks don't have a 'ripe' moment, just a 'big enough' one. Loosen with a fork (they anchor like they pay rent) and twist out. Overwintered leeks get sweeter after frost; harvest before they bolt in spring.
