🍉 Orangeglo Watermelon

Citrullus lanatus ‘Orangeglo’
The orange-fleshed showstopper: oblong, striped melons with fiery orange, super-sweet, crisp flesh — the watermelon that makes guests ask what it is before they ask for a second slice.
Sun
Full sun, 8+ hours
Days to harvest
About 85-90 days from seed
Spacing
Hills 6-8 feet apart; vines run 10-15 feet
Soil pH
6.0-6.8, rich and well-drained
Zones
Warm-season annual; spring sowings in Florida

What it looks like

Orangeglo Watermelon (species photo)
Citrullus lanatus ‘Zloto Wolicy’ kz01. Photo: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz, CC BY-SA 4.0. Species photo — no verified photo of ‘Orangeglo Watermelon’ itself exists.
Orangeglo Watermelon (species photo)
Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) species photo. Species photo — no verified photo of ‘Orangeglo Watermelon’ itself exists.
Orangeglo Watermelon (species photo)
Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) species photo. Species photo — no verified photo of ‘Orangeglo Watermelon’ itself exists.

Why this variety

Orangeglo is an open-pollinated orange-fleshed watermelon developed by Willhite Seed Company in Texas and released in the 1960s. The fruit is oblong and striped, averaging 15 to 25 pounds, with bright orange flesh that is famously sweet and crisp — not soft, not mushy, but snappy in the way a great watermelon should be. It is the melon to grow when you want the picnic table to go quiet for a moment.

Orange flesh is not a gimmick here; it signals a different carotenoid profile and a flavor that leans more tropical and honeyed than the classic red. In Florida, Orangeglo wants the same treatment as any big watermelon — warm soil, full sun, steady water while fruit sizes, then a taper — and it rewards patience: orange melons can look ripe before they are, so trust the ground spot and the dried tendril over the rind color.

How to grow

Direct sow after the soil hits 70°F or warmer — watermelons germinate in heat or not at all. Plant about 1 inch deep in hills (3 to 4 seeds per hill, thin to the 2 strongest plants), or start indoors 3 to 4 weeks early in peat pots, because watermelons hate root disturbance. Black plastic mulch warms the soil, suppresses weeds, and keeps the fruit clean in Florida’s sandy beds.

Watermelons are space-hungry: plan for vines 10 feet or more, and do not crowd them, because crowded vines stay wet, and wet vines get disease. Row cover until flowering keeps cucumber beetles off young plants — they vector bacterial wilt, which has no cure — then remove it so bees can reach the flowers. Rotate beds: never follow melons, cucumbers, or squash with melons, because fusarium wilt builds up in warm soil and waits for the next crop.

Water & feeding

Deep, regular water during vine growth and fruit set — then TAPER OFF as fruit approaches ripeness. This is the single biggest flavor lever you have: a melon watered heavily right up to harvest tastes watery, while one tapered at the end concentrates its sugars. Mulch holds the even moisture that prevents cracking and blossom-end problems in Florida’s cycle of downpour and drought.

Feed at planting with worm castings worked into the hill, and side-dress at flowering. Too much nitrogen late in the season means lush vines and bland fruit — the plant version of studying for the wrong exam. A little potassium as fruit sizes helps sugars and rind quality.

Common problems

  • Cucumber beetles: row cover until flowering; they vector bacterial wilt, which has no cure — prevention beats cure.
  • Fusarium wilt: a soil fungus that yellows and collapses vines, worst in warm soil. Rotate beds for years, not months, and prefer resistant varieties where they exist.
  • Anthracnose and gummy stem blight: leaf and fruit spots that love warm, wet weather. Airflow, mulch, base watering, and resistant varieties are the defense; remove badly spotted leaves rather than letting them rain spores onto fruit.
  • Melonworm and pickleworm: Florida caterpillars that chew leaves and bore into fruit. Hand-pick, watch for frass, and use Bt early on young caterpillars.
  • Poor fruit set: usually a lack of pollinators. Hand-pollinate with a paintbrush if bees are scarce — female flowers carry a tiny melon at the base.

Harvest

Ripe when the ground spot is creamy yellow, the nearest tendril dries, and a thump sounds hollow; do not judge by rind color alone. Harvest by the trio of signs, not by the calendar alone: a creamy-yellow ground spot where the melon sat, a dried tendril nearest the fruit, and a deep, hollow thump. One sign alone lies; all three together rarely do. Cut the stem, lift — do not drag — and chill the melon before cutting for the crispest flesh.

Nerdy fact: Watermelon flesh color is chemistry, not food coloring: red flesh is lycopene, orange flesh is beta-carotene — the same pigment that makes carrots orange. An Orangeglo slice is, in a very real sense, a carrot-colored watermelon, and your body treats that pigment as vitamin A raw material.

For the crop in general, see the Watermelon growing guide. Browse all plant & pest guides.

Saving seeds

Orangeglo is an open-pollinated orange-fleshed watermelon developed by Willhite Seed Company in Texas and released in the 1960s. The fruit is oblong and striped, averaging 15 to 25 pounds, with bright orange flesh that is famously sweet and crisp — not soft, not mushy, but snappy in the way a great watermelon should be. Orange flesh is not a gimmick here; it signals a different carotenoid profile and a flavor that leans more tropical and honeyed than the classic red. As an open-pollinated variety it comes true from seed: direct sow after the soil hits 70°F or warmer — watermelons germinate in heat or not at all — plant about 1 inch deep in hills, and trust the ground spot and the dried tendril over the rind color, because orange melons can look ripe before they are. The full method is in the Saving seeds section of the Watermelon guide.